LHOTSE SOUTH FACE EXPEDITION

Lhotse South is known as one of the toughest and most dangerous climbing routes above 8000 meters, gaining a bad reputation over time. This tough journey lasts 56 days and includes the hardest paths to reach the fourth highest peak in the world, after Mt. Everest, Mt. K2, and Mt. Kangchenjunga. Standing at 8,516 meters above sea level, Lhotse's south face is known for its steep and challenging climb.

The name "Lhotse" means "South" in Tibetan, and the peak is located on the border between Nepal's Khumbu region and China, forming an important part of the Everest massif along with Lhotse Shar and Lhotse Middle. What sets Lhotse South apart is its dramatic vertical rise of 3.2 kilometers over just 2.25 kilometers horizontally, making it the steepest face of its size in the world.

While many climbers have successfully reached Lhotse via the standard route, the southern approach is much more difficult due to the tough and dangerous conditions climbers face, including a massive 3,300-meter wall made of snow, rock, avalanches, and strong winds. Famous climbers like Reinhold Messner and Jerzy Kukuczka tried to climb the south face but unfortunately failed.

The first successful climb of Lhotse Shar via the south face was completed by a Czech-Slovak team in 1984, after many attempts. Climbers on Lhotse's south face deal with harsh weather, icy conditions, and rocky obstacles, making it a rare climb. With unpredictable conditions, navigating this dangerous face is often considered the most perilous part of the ascent.

To ensure a successful expedition, Makalu Adventure offers a well-organized and safe experience, focusing on excellent logistics and carefully planned itineraries. Their services aim to provide convenience at a competitive price, using a team of experienced professionals to help throughout the journey. Sherpas and porters are in charge of setting up

Minimum travellers 2
Maximum travellers 10

Itinerary

  • 1

    Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300 m) and transfer to hotel.

    Upon your arrival at Tribhuwan Airport, our staff will escort you to our hotel in Thamel. You will have the opportunity to relax or go sightseeing. Later in the evening you will be met by our guide to provide information and arrange your upcoming Lhotse expedition trip.

  • 2-3

    Preparing expedition in Kathmandu

    Over the next two days, we will be diligently making the necessary final preparations and arrangements for your upcoming trip. During this time you will have the opportunity to meet your team, guides and Sherpa as well as complete all required government formalities such as obtaining expedition permits, national park permits and other relevant documentation. Our team will provide you with a comprehensive briefing on the ascent of Lhotse from the south face.

  • 4

    Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2,610m)

    Our Lhotse expedition starts with a domestic flight to Lukla, which usually takes around 35 minutes. Also known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla Airport is located between a cliff and a hill and boasts a short runway. It has gained a reputation as one of the most dangerous airports in the world. After the flight, we will trek to Phakding for a distance of 8 kilometers. This trek is expected to take approximately 3-4 hours. Along the way, you will have the opportunity to explore numerous culturally rich villages and admire the breathtaking mountains of Khumbila and Kusum Kangraru. Our overnight stay will be in Phakding.

  • 5

    Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m). Overnight at Hotel

    On the fifth day of our trip, we hike to Namche Bazaar along the Dudh Koshi River. The trail will lead us through pine forests and over several suspension bridges. After reaching Monjo, we will see the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park. After obtaining the permit, we will continue our ascent to Namche Bazaar, where we will spend the night. This trek covers a distance of 10 kilometers and takes approximately five hours to complete.

  • 6

    Acclimatization day in Namche Bazar (3,440 m)

    During the acclimatization day, we take a break to allow our bodies to adjust to the environment. Namche Bazaar serves as the primary trading center for the high Himalayas and offers numerous cafes, restaurants and a bustling market with a peaceful atmosphere. This area provides internet access and basic services such as a hospital, post office and health post. In addition, a short trip to get to know the neighboring villages is planned.

  • 7

    Trek Namche to Deboche (3,820m)

    On the seventh day we will walk 11 kilometers along the Dudh Koshi River, it will take 5-6 hours. The trail offers stunning views of Mount Everest, Mt Ama Dablam and Mt Nuptse. We will drive through a beautiful forest and arrive in Sanasa. We will choose between Gokyo Valley or Everest Base Camp, then climb to Tengboche Monastery, where we will witness the Mani Rimdu Festival. We end up in Deboche.

  • 8

    Trek Deboche to Dingboche (4,410m)

    On the eighth day of the Lhotse expedition, we embark on an 11 km uphill trek that starts at the Imja River and continues through dense forest to Pangboche, passing the Pheriche and Lobuche rivers and finally arriving at Dingboche, the Summer Valley of the Imja River. The Khumbu region, where we will enjoy an amazing view and rest.

  • 9

    Acclimatization Day (4,900m)

    On the ninth day, take a break to allow your body to acclimatize to the weather and environment. Explore the surrounding villages to better understand the Sherpa culture and way of life. In addition, we can go on a trek to the village of Chukung and, for those interested, to the peak of Chukung Ri.

  • 10

    Trek to Chukung (4,730m)

    During the 10th day of the Lhotse expedition, we plan to hike from Dingboche to Chukung, which is located near Island Peak. The trail to Chukung offers stunning views of the Himalayas. Our accommodation for the night will be in a cottage.

  • 11

    Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m)

    On day 11 of the Lhotse expedition, the terrain becomes more challenging with boulders and glacial rivers along the trail. We continue our journey over the Lhotse Glacier and reach the base camp for Island Peak, where there is a magnificent view of the peak. We will stay overnight at base camp to rest and recharge for the next leg of our adventure.

  • 12

    Climbing Training

    On the twelfth day our team will offer pre-climbing training, covering climbing techniques, proper use of tools, rope use, safety precautions and training at High Camp and Base Camp with overnight rest at Island Peak Base Camp.

  • 13

    Summit Island Peak (6,119m) and back to Chukung

    On the 13th day of the South Lhotse expedition, we aim to conquer Island Peak. The route is gentle, then steep, offering breathtaking views. We will ford the glaciers with ropes, thereby reducing the temperature. We aim to reach the summit before noon to avoid unpredictable weather conditions. Upon arrival, we will see snow-capped peaks.

  • 14-26

    Trek to Lhotse Base Camp (5 Hrs, 5,200 m)

    Our goal is to trek to Lhotse Base Camp, an altitude of 5,200m above sea level, which offers an amazing snowy landscape and views of Mount Pumori, Nuptse and Lolu. The 10-day stay will include training and acclimatization, with qualified staff providing sessions on climbing techniques, equipment use, rope handling, safety protocols and hands-on skills-enhancing exercises.

  • 27

    Trek to Camp I (5,900m)

    Day 27 of the Lhotse South expedition includes a 750m mixed ascent from Base Camp to Camp I, which requires experienced climbers to prepare for the final ascent. This early attempt allows you to familiarize yourself with the routes and difficulties, while an overnight stay at Camp I helps you acclimatize.

  • 28

    Stay at Base Camp

    On the 28th we will stay at the base camp. This day will be your rest period as well as training. We will also prepare for the trek to Camp I.

  • 29-30

    Trek to Camp I (5,900m)

    The trek starts at dawn towards Camp I. After 5 hours you arrive at Camp I for 2 days to rest and acclimatize. Enjoy stunning views of the landscape and prepare to climb to Camp II.

  • 31-32

    Trek to Camp II (6,400m)

    On the 31st day, climb to Camp II at the foot of the west ridge, pass through the gorge and cover 1300 m in 9-10 hours. Enjoy the spectacular view and stay 2 days before climbing to Camp III.

  • 33-34

    Trek to Base Camp III (7,100m)

    On day 33, we embark on a challenging trek to Camp III, a challenging climb due to high altitude and steep slopes, using ropes for night and day rest.

  • 35

    Back to Camp I (5,900 m)

    On the 35th day we descend back to Camp I and rest there for the night.

  • 36-39

    Return to Base Camp and rest. (5,600 m)

    With an early start to the day, we descend the same route to the Lhotse base camp. We will stay in the base camp for 2 days as a rest.

  • 40

    Climb up to Camp I (5,900 m)

    Today we have a planned ascent to Camp I. The ascent will begin at dawn. After reaching camp I, we spend the night there.

  • 41

    From Camp I to Camp II (6,400 m)

    On the 42nd day of the trip, we plan to climb to camp II, where we will spend the night resting.

  • 42-43

    From Camp II to Camp III (7,100 m)

    On the 42nd day, our goal will be to climb to camp III. Climbers who experience discomfort on their first attempt can take solace in the fact that their bodies are already acclimatizing. After the challenging ascent to camp III, we will enjoy a well-deserved rest. We will also set aside the following day for rest in this camp.

  • 44

    Camp IV (7,900 m, 6 hrs.)

    During day 44 of our Lhotse South Face expedition, our goal is to reach Camp IV, which is located at an altitude of 7,900 meters. The wall presents a challenging slope of 40-45 degrees, which requires approximately 8 hours of climbing. As the final camp before our final destination, it provides us with the opportunity to rest and make the necessary preparations for the upcoming final climb.

  • 45

    Camp IV to Summit. (8,516 m, 10 Hours)/Descend towards Camp II

    Day 45 of the South Face of Lhotse expedition we will climb for 10 hours, starting at 00:00 due to unpredictable weather. Our experienced guides and a Sherpa will guide us through steep sections and an 80-degree bump. Despite the challenges, the rewards are immeasurable, including panoramic views of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, South Col and the snowy region. We will then descend back to Camp II to recover and prepare for the next phase of the expedition.

  • 46

    Camp II to Base camp (5,200 m)

    Today, as we embark on day 46 of our challenging expedition to the south face of Lhotse, our primary objective is to descend to base camp at dawn. Our team will spend the day at base camp preparing for the next phase of our expedition.

  • 47-49

    Rest at Base Camp (5,200 m)

    After tiring ascents and descents, we will rest for 3 days in the base camp. We will spend the day mainly resting and packing and cleaning the campsite. You can also explore the surrounding regions.

  • 50

    Base camp to Tengboche (3,860 m) (14 km, 7 hrs)

    After enough rest, we are ready to start the descent. The road ahead is approximately 14 km long, but will not present any significant challenge. Along the way, you will be able to admire the Imja River and the lush Pangboche pine forest. It will take us approximately 7 hours to reach our destination, Tengboch. We spend the night in Tengboche.

  • 51

    Tengboche to Namche Bazar (14-15 km, about 7 hours)

    On day 51 we will drive 14-15 km from Tengboche to Namche Bazar and admire stunning Himalayan views. After a 7-hour trek, we will reach Namche Bazar and spend the night there.

  • 52

    Namche to Lukla (Distance: 18 km, Time: 7-8 hrs)

    An 8-hour trek from Namche Bazar to Sagarmatha National Park, via suspension bridges and Phakding, culminates in Lukla, where we rest and prepare for our flight back to Kathmandu.

  • 53

    Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu

    Due to the weather there will be an early flight to Kathmandu. The domestic flight will take about 45 minutes. Once we reach there we will take you to your Thamel Eco Resort hotel. You are welcome to rest and maybe later to explore the city.

  • 54

    Rest day at Kathmandu

    The day also offers an opportunity to explore the city's attractions, including charming cafes, pubs, spas, restaurants and iconic sites such as Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Swayambhu and Pashupatinath.

  • 55

    Transfer to airport from Hotel for departure

    Today begins your journey back home. A member of the Makalu Adventure team will accompany you to the airport for your departure. We hope you cherished the experience and created unforgettable memories to cherish and share with your loved ones.

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